Gangneung is an east-coast city where long sandy beaches meet Korea's best-known coffee scene. The Anmok Coffee Street runs right along the water, roastery after roastery with the sea in the window, and it's where Korea's specialty-coffee wave started. The city hosted the ice events of the 2018 Winter Olympics, and it's under two hours from Seoul on the KTX, which makes it an easy escape for sunrise over the East Sea and a slower, salt-air pace.
What to see and do
- Anmok Coffee Street — the seafront row that kicked off Korea's specialty-coffee boom, one roastery and sea-view cafe after another. Grab a window seat and watch the surf.
- Gyeongpo Beach & Lake — a long stretch of sand beside a lake ringed by a walking-and-cycling path, with the old Gyeongpodae pavilion above it.
- Ojukheon — a Joseon-era house museum, birthplace of the scholar Yi I and his mother Shin Saimdang. Both appear on Korean banknotes.
- Jumunjin — a fishing port north of the city, known for its breakwater and a much-photographed seaside bus stop from a K-drama.
- Daegwallyeong — mountain passes, a sheep ranch and pine forests just inland, cooler and greener than the coast.
What to eat
At Jumunjin, go for fresh hoe (raw fish) and grilled squid straight off the boats. Around Chodang village the specialty is sundubu, soft tofu made with East Sea brine instead of the usual coagulant, and it's noticeably silkier for it. Then there's the coffee at Anmok, which is the whole reason half the city shows up.
Getting around
The KTX from Seoul reaches Gangneung in under two hours. Everything spreads along the coast, so plan on local buses or a taxi between the beaches. Around Gyeongpo Lake, renting a bike is the nicer way to cover the loop.
When to go
Summer is beach season and the busiest. Winter brings crisp, clear East Sea sunrises and puts the 2018 Olympic ski venues within easy reach. Autumn is calm and clear, and a good bet if you'd rather avoid crowds.
Insider tip
Set an alarm for sunrise at Gyeongpo or Jumunjin. The East Sea gets Korea's earliest light, and the beachfront cafes open early enough that you can thaw out over a coffee right after.
