Geoje is Korea's second-largest island, sitting off the south coast just west of Busan. It has climbed fast up the list of places Koreans go on holiday, and it's easy to see why: sea cliffs, garden islands you reach by boat, breezy headland viewpoints and seafood pulled straight from the water. The signature stops are Oedo Botania, a manicured garden island reached by ferry; Windy Hill, a grassy headland over the sea; and Haegeumgang, a cluster of striking rock formations best seen from a short cruise. String it together with Tongyeong and Busan for a south-coast loop.
What to see and do
- Oedo Botania — a private garden island of subtropical plants and sculptures, reached by ferry from Jangseungpo or Gujora. Photogenic, and a bit theme-park in feel, but worth the boat ride.
- Windy Hill — a grassy headland with a windmill and wide sea views, a short walk from Haegeumgang. It earns the name; bring a jacket.
- Haegeumgang — dramatic sea-rock formations best seen from a short excursion boat, often bundled with the Oedo ferry.
- Sinseondae — a cliff viewpoint over the open sea, one of the island's best spots for a photo.
- Geoje POW Camp — a museum on the island's Korean War history, when Geoje held one of the largest prisoner camps of the war.
What to eat
This is an island, so seafood leads. Look for grilled fish, mulhoe (cold raw-fish soup) in the summer heat, and oyster dishes once the weather cools, when Geoje's beds are at their best.
Getting around
Geoje connects to Busan by the Geoga Bridge, roughly an hour by bus or car. The viewpoints are scattered around the coast and the buses are infrequent, so a rental car is the practical choice if you want to see more than one or two in a day.
When to go
Late spring and early autumn are the sweet spots: mild, clear and good for getting out on the water. Summer fills up with domestic beachgoers, so expect crowds and book ahead.
Insider tip
Buy a combined Oedo Botania and Haegeumgang ferry-and-cruise ticket and go in the morning, when the sea is calmest and the boats are less likely to be canceled for swell.
